Jane's Journal Page Notes:
None today. I wrote small. ;-)
None today. I wrote small. ;-)
Journal entry:
The plan for today was to rise and shine early. Huh. Well, we did get up fairly early, but because we have a large, noisy, boisterous group here, we weren’t exactly zooming. Plus, Beast had to go pick up Elizabeth, who is traveling with us for a couple of days. She had to be brought back to Jean & Reg's house so her parents could say goodbye. They are off to Germany the day after tomorrow. Confused yet?
In the melee, Elizabeth left her jacket at Rosellen's, so Marie will go get it and mail it to Elizabeth when everyone is back in their own houses next month. Aha, NOW the confusion has hit full-force! Welcome to my family.
It is a nice drive up to Lincoln. We relied primarily on Daphne, with me following along on the maps I had. Lincoln isn’t a very big city, so once you are in the city, you are very nearly on top of all the "sights." Our hotel, Hillcrest, is on a quiet street midway down the hill from the cathedral and castle, with the tiniest little front parking lot ever. There is just enough room to drive down off the street directly towards the front door and turn abruptly, almost making a U-turn, into a parking spot. Of course, Beast wanted to back in.
It’s a secure building, so we buzzed to get in, and a young woman with very little English took us downstairs to the registration desk. Yes, really, downstairs. This is not a Holiday Inn. The desk is set up in the hallway just outside the bar/restaurant on the garden level in the rear of the house. First odd, but cool, thing.
The second odd, but ultimately nice, thing is that the owner was standing there as we finished up and she gave us the 45-second verbal tour of Lincoln: what’s good, what’s not, how to get there, and when the restaurant in the hotel served dinner. No lie: 45 seconds. She’s very brisk, and in a good way, too. My suspicion is that she's Buddhist, based on the presence of a Gideon Bible AND two books on Buddhism in the hotel room.
We collected our luggage and trooped back upstairs to our rooms. Well, actually, just to our room, since they were still cleaning Elizabeth's room. Hers is on the main floor, about 20 yards from the front door in a small and very cute room. Not 'cute' in real estate terminology, but more like a luxury train car 'cute.' Our room is upstairs one flight--but OH what a flight! Wide enough for at least four people on each tread, stained glass on the landing, and probably 20-foot ceilings! We are around the corner from the stairs in a triple room that is nearly American in size. Almost Holiday Inn! heh Except, really nice.
Since Elizabeth's room wasn’t ready, she put her suitcase in our room and off we went immediately to find the cathedral. And lunch. We used my trusty list of Lincoln Eats (compiled painstakingly last winter and spring from 6-8 different travel guides) and went to Brown’s Pie Shop, just down Steep Hill from the cathedral gate. Steep Hill is the name of the street. It is. Steep, that is.
Wonderful meat pies, about 8” around and 4-6” deep. Oy. Yeah, I could live on them. And Elizabeth & I had sweet carrot soup, which was amazingly lovely. Not really sweet, but very very tasty. Yum. We were SO full. Best restaurant meal so far, I think.
After lunch, we did a longish self-tour of the cathedral. Sparky found the imp, after much searching; it’s awfully high up. Even I had to have it pointed out to me. The best parts of the building were the Chapter House and the altar. They also have a very cool, modern "stations of the cross" except not really...anyway, it’s all carved wood. Quite interesting. A bit hard to explain, and I'm not sure if it was an exhibit or a permanent display. I wish I'd paid closer attention or picked up a book on them, because they don't seem to be in the regular guide book.
The organ was playing here, too, and before we left the choir had begun to practice. I lit more candles.
There was also a group of folks setting up for a medieval mystery play just in front of the quire; one of them stopped and chatted with us, and invited us back for the dress rehearsal tonight. Unfortunately, we ran out of time and didn’t go.
We had a nice visit there, but the consequence is that we got to the castle with very little time to tour it. I also didn‘t really understand that the main castle building is actually still used, as a court. So we couldn‘t go in there, but we did get a chance to go in the building that was the prison and see one of the four extant copies of the Magna Carta. That was very impressive; they‘ve done a neat preparatory display. Thank goodness, as us Americans are a little vague on the concept, frankly. In the room where the document lives, there is a recording of someone reading it aloud. It is unidentifiable as Latin or English. Even the docent says she can't understand what part is being read, and she stands there all day!
We also walked through the rest of the prison, which was mildly spooky: we were the only people around. There was children’s art hanging on some of the walls, bright and colorful in a dreary hallway. In another section some black and white photos of a woman "prisoner." It was art, but creepy art. I can’t really explain it, except that she was the saddest looking person. The photographs are mixed in with some cursory "prison life" displays. It may be that the building is haunted. I'm about as likely to admit seeing ghosts as I would be likely to eat my shoes, but there you go: clammy skin time.
The creepiest part of the place is the prison chapel. It is a largish room with theater-style steps down to a well in the center. Above the well along the back wall is the pulpit, where the minister would stand about 25 feet up from the base of the well. The Victorian theory was that, even prisoners in solitary confinement--which meant solitary ALL THE TIME--had to attend chapel. Probably even more so, since obviously their immortal souls were at stake. But they were in sentenced to solitary, so some arrangement had to be made to keep them segregated from one another.
Each level of the ‘audience’ side of the room had a series of doors through which the prisoners walked, one by one. When one was at the end, the door he’d just walked through was shut, enclosing him in a narrow coffin-like 'room,' with a shelf on which he could probably rest his arms in a properly prayerful position. I’m assuming few prisoners were taller than I am (about 5’8”); they would have had their arms at shoulder height. The only view for them was of the minister in the pulpit. No prisoner would have been able to see anyone else. There is also a little misericord to sit on, but then you'd be below wall level; a little claustrophobic.
I'm sure they could hear one another, but bursting out with noise in church was ... ahem ... frowned upon, I'm sure. Chapel tended to run three to four hours. Then they’d be removed back to their cells. Still in solitary.
This little experiment lasted only a few years. Apparently, many of the prisoners went mad.
I’m not in the least freaked out by tight spaces normally. I love caves, and elevators don't bother me in the least. These 'cells' made my stomach hollow out. I couldn’t even close the doors properly without getting nauseous. Awful awful room. It certainly didn't leave me with much of a godly feeling in my stomach.
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We walked the castle walls and towers until the grounds were closed to tourists. Then we walked up opposite Steep Hill--behind some barristers? Solicitors?--to a bank with an ATM (there is a corner with three different banks on it. Competition is thriving in the North!). On the way back down the hill, we stopped at an ice cream place. Everyone else had ice cream cones; I had tea and a scone. It was tea time after all! We ate in the shop, downstairs, in a little groined cellar area that was somehow very churchy and lovely. Much more godly feeling there!
These few moments of respite gave us energy enough to walk back down to our hotel, where Elizabeth took her suitcase into her room and we all had a half-hour rest period. Then we negotiated dinner: Should we spend £14 each on the restaurant meal at the hotel, or hike back up the hill to where all the other restaurants and pubs are. The area around the hotel is primarily residential; there is a large park behind us, of which we have a beautiful view from our window. Very quiet; no traffic. No places to grab food quickly either.
Our Scotch sides came out: we walked back up the hill to the other side of the cathedral and had a perfectly lovely pub meal in the garden at the Bull & Chain pub, among the trees and bushes (and swings and slides). No other little kids, a few other adults. Quiet, close enough to hear the chiming of the cathedral clock. Perfect.
Walked back to the hotel where we went downstairs to the garden area behind the house and had a drink and attempted to plan tomorrow. It really was a beautiful day today: sunny and warm, but not hot. The garden is above that park I mentioned above, in which Sparky discovered there is a giant lion statue. He immediately decided it was Aslan.
Once it got chilly out and we realized that we couldn't plan for tomorrow without some more information, we came back up to our room. I took a shower (typical British loo: small,. It is at least functional) and then gave myself a manicure and a pedicure and read, and wrote a lot of this, while Beast and Elizabeth got on the internet with Beast's laptop.
Elizabeth is coming with us to York tomorrow, where she’ll catch a train to Manchester. She’s staying at a hostel there tomorrow night and then flying home the next day.
After about two hours, they ended up--we hope--reserving a ticket for her, which we can pick up tomorrow at the train station in York. Very cool. The internet is amazing. British trains are amazing, too.
Elizabeth has come down with a cold; she spent the day saying she was sure it’s allergies, but it’s not. Her flight home won’t be fun, but at least right now, it’s just sniffles.
It’s late, I’m tired and we hope to leave early tomorrow. I hate to leave here. This is a great hotel, and Lincoln is definitely worth more time spent wandering around. It’s not very touristy, actually. Could it be all those hills... ;-)